This is the third and the last post about my road trip and just like in the previous ones (part 1 and part 2), there are plenty of pictures you can click on in order to enlarge them.
entering South Dakota
We were heading toward Rapid City, where we planned to stay for the next couple of nights. The drive wasn’t too long, just around four hours, but since it wasn’t on an interstate highway, we had to pass through towns rather than bypassing them. That meant I needed to stay a bit more alert behind the wheel. Still, it was a good and interesting ride, definitely not as monotonous as in its northern namesake. Along the way, we passed the usual farms, but also oil fields and game reserves. The landscape, while mostly flat, had pockets of trees, and everything was dressed in beautiful autumn colours. It felt like driving through a golden postcard.
We chose Rapid City because it’s the gateway to the Black Hills, in fact, that’s even the town’s nickname. This region is home to the places that interested us most: Custer State Park, Wind Cave National Park, Crazy Horse Memorial, Jewel Cave National Monument, and Mount Rushmore National Memorial. And if nature isn’t your thing, the area still has plenty to offer. Scattered nearby are Cold War-era missile launch sites and Ellsworth Air Force Base, one of the most important in the country. Between the South Dakota Air and Space Museum and the historic missile silos, there’s something here for everyone, even those more into jets than geology.
the Nature loop
First of all, don’t bother googling the “Nature Loop”, I just coined that name myself. We left Rapid City early in the morning, spent the whole day driving through the area (mostly in one direction), and returned to the hotel by evening. Some parts of the route do have official names, like Wildlife Loop Road or the Needles Highway, but that’s exactly why Rapid City is such a great base for exploring this part of the U.S. Oh, and it took us only one day because, unfortunately, I developed a weird foot ache and I was limping. I couldn’t walk too many stairs, the caves were out of the question, so do the hikes. The experience was incredible, nevertheless. If you can stay in the area longer than we did, you definitely should, you won’t be disappointed.
Part of our route that day included the caves. Wind Cave National Park was established in 1903 by my favourite U.S. president, yes, Theodore Roosevelt! It was only the sixth national park overall and the first cave system in the world to receive that designation. The name comes from a unique “breathing” phenomenon: due to pressure differences between the inside of the cave and the outside air, the cave quite literally inhales and exhales as it tries to reach equilibrium. Wind Cave is, first of all, enormous. And second, it only has a few small openings to the surface, which makes those air movements even more noticeable. The quicker the weather changes, and we’re talking about a mountainous area, so that’s often, the more dramatic and audible the cave’s “breath” becomes. With over 260 km (160 miles) of known and mapped passages, it’s the third-longest cave in the U.S. (seventh in the world). Jewel Cave, located nearby, ranks even higher, second in the U.S. and fourth globally, with almost 350 km (215 miles) explored.
As I mentioned earlier, I couldn’t really explore the caves due to my condition. There are several types of excursions available, each with different durations and levels of difficulty. Even if you don’t plan on going underground, these parks are absolutely worth a visit, not just for the excellent visitor centres and their educational exhibits, but also for the stunning natural surroundings. This area is home to the largest remaining natural mixed-grass prairie in the U.S., which means you’re very likely to spot wildlife right from your car (I’m a living proof!). Bison, foxes, coyotes, raccoons, pronghorns, prairie dogs, and wild turkeys are common sightings without leaving your car. And if you decide to go for a walk, you might be lucky enough to catch a glimpse of bobcats, cougars, badgers, black-footed ferrets, or even the rare whooping crane.
the Crazy Horse Memorial
The Black Hills look almost out of place, an isolated mountain range rising abruptly from the surrounding flat plains. While your first thought might be the Rockies, those lie much farther west. For the Native Americans, particularly the Lakota, the Black Hills are sacred ground, central to their culture and spirituality. It’s also where you’ll find one of the tallest statues in the world and the largest mountain carving ever attempted: the Crazy Horse Memorial.
The Crazy Horse Memorial is still an ongoing project, started back in the 1930s when Oglala Lakota Chief Standing Bear invited Polish-American sculptor Korczak Ziółkowski to take it on. This came after an unsuccessful attempt to have Crazy Horse’s face included alongside the four American presidents on nearby Mount Rushmore. When that idea failed to gain support, the Lakota decided to fund a monument of their own. From the very beginning, they refused government assistance and have relied solely on private donations. The sculpture remains unfinished, with no clear end date in sight, but it’s already a striking sight, visible from a great distance. The massive figure of the warrior is meant to be the centrepiece of a larger cultural complex, which will include a university campus (currently under development) and the Indian Museum of North America. The museum is already open and houses a rich collection of artefacts, functioning as both an educational centre and a space for Native artists. The gift shop sells beautifully crafted pieces, all made by Native Americans. They’re more expensive than the mass-produced items you’ll find in roadside shops, but also far more meaningful. My intricately designed dreamcatcher, for example, cost four times as much as a similar one I saw elsewhere, but the quality, detail, and authenticity made it worth every penny.
Custer State Park
This park is located just outside Rapid City on the way to Wind Cave National Park, so visiting was an easy choice. We were already passing through it, free of charge, and spotted some wildlife along the way. But if you really want to experience the best of it, pay the small fee and take the Wildlife Loop Road. It’s a completely different adventure. If you were already impressed by the animals you saw on the main road, prepare to be blown away. Driving this loop feels like your own private safari, there’s very little traffic, and the wildlife is everywhere. And I’m not just talking about bison, although by this point in our trip they had become almost as common as road signs, they remained just as awe-inspiring. Don’t be fooled by their calm appearance: bison are massive, fast, and unpredictable. It’s a bit unnerving when one stops in front of your car and its breath fogs up your windshield. You’ll also encounter the “begging burros”, donkeys that boldly approach your car hoping for snacks. Then there are the wild turkeys, completely unimpressed by the size of your vehicle, casually strutting down the road for half a mile right in front of us, ignoring even the horn. Coyotes, pronghorns, and prairie dogs, too, most of them behaving as if you’re the one intruding. The wildlife here is abundant, the encounters unforgettable, and the only thing to remember is to eventually close your mouth, because this is surely a jaw-dropping experience.
Mount Rushmore
This is a place I’ve always felt very ambivalent about. I wasn’t convinced that humans should carve their presence into mountains. It’s already more than enough that we redirect rivers or damage the environment by leaving behind non-compostable waste. And yet, after visiting, I have to admit, it’s even more complicated. Because I won’t lie: I was won over by the place. Does it blend seamlessly into the natural rock? Not really. Is it educational? Barely, you could learn far more about those four presidencies from a book or documentary. But is it absolutely breath-taking and strangely stirring, making you feel a tug of admiration and even longing to be American? Yes! And that’s saying something coming from a proud European. Mount Rushmore is a monument not just to history, but to the power of public relations, a shrine to national image that continues to draw millions from around the world.
And don’t even get me started on the hypocrisy behind this place. Mount Rushmore was carved between 1927 and 1941 by blasting away nearly half a million tons of rock from a mountain that, according to the 1868 Treaty of Fort Laramie, was supposed to belong to the Sioux tribe “as long as the buffalo may range thereon in such numbers as to justify the chase”. The buffalo did roam there, until gold was discovered in the Black Hills a few years later. The sacred mountain, known to the Lakotas as The Six Grandfathers (representing west, east, north, south, above, and below), was transformed into a tourism opportunity for the state of South Dakota. The monument honors four great American leaders: George Washington, Thomas Jefferson, Theodore Roosevelt (yes, him again), and Abraham Lincoln, and symbolizes democracy, freedom, and patriotism. Yet it also painfully highlights a historical lack of understanding and respect for the Native peoples who lived there for generations. Today, progress is being made – 21 tribal nations are now consulted on certain policies and actions related to the site. It may not be enough, but it is definitely a step in the right direction.
We visited the Memorial in the evening, and I highly recommend approaching Mount Rushmore from Custer State Park via the very curvy but well-maintained road. The views along the way are stunning, with the road facing the presidents directly and featuring picturesque tunnels and the famous “pigtail” bridges. The setting sun made the experience even more majestic and unforgettable. The walkway leading to the Grand View Terrace and Visitor Center is called the Avenue of Flags, lined with flags representing all fifty U.S. states, one district, three territories, and two commonwealths, arranged alphabetically. It’s grand, it’s majestic, it’s truly the USA.
ps. as for now, there are no plans of adding any other face to the side of the mountain
Badlands National Park
Badlands is not only the general name for the harsh, unforgiving landscape we had been exploring over the past few days, but it is also a national park located just outside Rapid City. Its main road runs parallel to I-90, which I needed to take anyway to get to Omaha, Nebraska. Here, you can truly appreciate why the name fits so well. Forget the flowery meadows up north, ideal for cattle grazing, imagine instead unusual rock formations, steep slopes accessible only to bighorn sheep, venomous snakes and spiders, and no potable water. It’s easy to see why no other name could capture the character of this rugged land.
The park is made up of three units, with the North Unit being the most visited due to its convenient location along the Interstate. It’s also home to the Visitor Center, which features a highly informative and engaging exhibition on fossils and prehistoric life, a true paradise for paleontologists. I ended up spending much more time there than I had planned, which meant that instead of heading straight to Omaha, I had to find a place to rest along the way. The park’s roads are narrow and winding, you can catch a glimpse of them in the videos I shared in the first post. That day was also memorable because we crossed the Missouri River not once, not twice, but three times (once more early the next morning!).
Omaha
Omaha was the largest city we visited during our trip and the official reason for our Midwest Halloween road trip – the SIETAR USA 2022 conference. SIETAR stands for the Society for Intercultural Education, Training, and Research, and I’ve been a member since 2008, first with the Polish branch and now with the European one. The organization not only provides invaluable resources to keep me up to date in the field but also requires ongoing personal development from its members, which reassures my clients that they receive the highest quality service possible.
The conference began on Thursday evening, so, being a bit of a zoo enthusiast, I couldn’t pass up the chance to visit Omaha’s zoo, especially after learning that TripAdvisor once named it the best zoological garden in the world. I’m not sure I’d call it the best I’ve ever seen, but it certainly delivered a full afternoon of entertainment. Many habitats were closed for the season, which was a bit disappointing given that ticket prices weren’t reduced, but I’d still love to return in the summer.
The experience felt different from European zoos. Here, education is paired with FUN – yes, capital F. During warmer months, visitors can ride trams, trains, or the Skyfari (an aerial gondola) across the grounds. There’s the Alaskan Adventure with water jets and sprays simulating the ocean shore, right next to Glacier Bay Landing, a recreation of an Alaskan coastal town complete with seating under a sea plane. The Lied Jungle, America’s largest indoor rainforest, features not only monkeys, tapirs, and pygmy hippos, but also bats, orchids, and waterfalls. Then there’s the aquarium, with a 70-foot shark tunnel and penguins so close you almost feel you could touch (naturally you mustn’t, but it’s still thrilling). There are some other habitats you could expect from a reputable establishment of this kind, and of course, the Desert Dome: the world’s largest glazed geodesic dome (their words, not mine), housing plants and animals from the Namib Desert of Africa, Australia’s Red Center, and the Sonoran Desert of the U.S., all separated by a central mountain. Perhaps most impressive of all is what lies beneath the dome: the Kingdom of the Night, the world’s largest (yes, you guessed it!) nocturnal exhibit, where a reversed day/night cycle reveals life in the dark: alligators in swampy waters, beavers in their lodge, and many other creatures usually hidden from view.
Mhm, maybe it actually was the best zoo I’ve ever been to? And I did not take too many pictures, when I’m in my ZOO mode, or a zoombie mode, like my husband likes to call it, I’m simply crazy, completely absorbed and borderline unresponsive.
Apart from the Henry Doorly Zoo & Aquarium, Omaha didn’t really charm me. What especially disappointed me, despite its reputation, was the amazing Bob Kerrey Pedestrian Bridge. Did you sense a contradiction? That was intentional. Omaha began as a booming industrial town and transportation hub on the Missouri. The river known as the Big Muddy is still the powerful force though the people try to constantly tame it. They started with building the dams and channel the water into a 600 foot wide, as straight as possible water trough. It is not in its natural state, at least not where I saw it. But what truly baffles me is how the city seems to turn its back on this powerful natural feature. From a European perspective, it’s almost unthinkable not to embrace your riverfront. The pedestrian bridge could be a step in the right direction, but without proper development of the surrounding areas, it feels more like an isolated gesture than meaningful integration. Walking there means navigating some rather sketchy surroundings, honestly, it’s safer to drive. Once you’re mid-bridge, somewhere between Nebraska and Iowa, a northward glance gives you a moment of peace (minus the structure’s occasional rumble), while the south offers an uninspiring view of industrial sprawl. There are signs of revitalization attempts, but so far, they fall short. Such a missed opportunity.
Native Americans
The Midwest pioneers arrived relatively late, by the time they began settling, the first peoples had already shaped this land for centuries. Their presence is visible everywhere, and being surrounded by it, deepened my interest in their history even more. Let me remind you: from the very beginning of planning our journey, Cahokia Mounds was at the top of my list. My curiosity had first sparked a few months earlier in Canada, and now, traveling through the Midwest, it was truly coming to a head.
Because of the field I work in, the conference was a perfect opportunity to ask more questions and learn firsthand about the minorities who once ruled vast parts of the continent. I’m certainly not an expert, but I discovered some misconceptions I hadn’t even realized I held. For instance, I had always assumed that Native Americans speak their own indigenous languages. Here, I learned that Spanish is actually the first language for many. I also have friends who are Spanish speakers, and I had always assumed they were of Mexican descent, only to discover that they are, in fact, Native American. From a cultural perspective, this was incredibly eye-opening and sparked my curiosity. The legacy of the Spanish Empire, which began colonizing the Americas centuries before the English, has left a lasting imprint. For many settled tribes, Spanish became the common language, and over generations, native tongues gradually disappeared. The influence of Catholic conversion and religious life further shaped this shift. As a result, many American citizens, often wrongly accused by radical politicians of being foreign or illegal, are, in fact, far more rooted in this land than their accusers.
Something entirely new to me, and something I deeply appreciated witnessing and being part of, was the “Acknowledgement ritual”. Right after one of the organizers opened the conference by recognizing the Native peoples as the past, present, and future caretakers of the land we stood on, an Elder from a local Omaha-area tribe offered a talk. What followed was a prayer and a sage-burning ceremony, creating probably the most powerful start to any day I have ever experienced. It was a simple yet profoundly spiritual way of honouring those who were here long before us, and whose lives and cultures have been deeply affected by our presence in ways that are hard to fathom. As someone encountering this kind of indigenous cultural expression for the first time, I felt both inspired and humbled, moved by the experience and awakened to a layer of awareness I hadn’t accessed before.
There are many ways to refer to the first inhabitants of North America, and the terminology varies over time and by country. In Canada, for example, I learned about First Nations and First Peoples during my visit to Ottawa; in the U.S., terms like Indian, Amerindian, Indigenous, or Aboriginal are used, each carrying different histories and sensitivities. Some of these terms have become outdated or offensive, while others have softened in tone or regained respectful use. The most important thing is to show respect—when in doubt, ask the person or community how they prefer to be identified. After all, those who ask might feel momentarily awkward, but those who never learn risk being mistaken for a lifetime.
Kansas
OK, I admit it, we mostly bypassed this state on our way from Omaha to St. Louis. But I had a perfectly valid reason for choosing a slower local road over I-29 directly to Kansas City (which, interestingly, is mostly in Missouri, not Kansas). Altogether, I spent less than an hour driving through the State, just enough to justify saying, as we crossed the Missouri River into St. Joseph: “Honey, I have a feeling we’re not in Kansas anymore”. Unfortunately, the reference was completely lost on my husband, and for a brief moment I considered revoking his gay membership card. Sigh… it’s probably my age, not his fault. By the way, did you know that when L. Frank Baum described Kansas in The Wizard of Oz, he was actually drawing from his experiences in South Dakota?
St. Louis
I had always wanted to see the Gateway Arch, though I’m not entirely sure why. I planned an overnight stay in St. Louis primarily to visit the Cahokia Mounds State Historic Site and hoped to catch a view of the monument from across the Missouri River, ideally without having to venture into downtown. Oh, how little did I know. What I said about Omaha turned out to be equally true for St. Louis, no inviting waterfront, no safe and pleasant space for a relaxed stroll or picnic by the river.
But first things first. By total accident, truly, we ended up booking a hotel right next to the zoo. You can probably guess where this is going. Since we arrived in St. Louis late in the evening, we decided to wake up early and visit the Saint Louis Zoological Park, as it’s officially called. The weather was perfect, after all, we had reached the southernmost point of our road trip, on par with Andalusia, Calabria, or the Peloponnese in Europe. Perhaps because of that, many more habitats were open and filled with animals than on our earlier zoo visits, which made the experience even more enjoyable. Entry to the zoo is free (yes, free!), with only a modest and reasonable charge for a nearby parking. In addition to the usual exhibits, one particularly stood out: a section dedicated to the ecosystems of the Missouri and Mississippi Rivers. It was fascinating and incredibly well done. I wouldn’t have learned so much about the region’s ecology if it weren’t for that exhibit. Given that St. Louis sits at the confluence of these two iconic rivers, it’s the ideal place for such an educational hub.
When we realised that there wasn’t really a place to admire the Arch from the other bank, I decided to head downtown instead. Opportunities like this don’t come often, so it felt worth braving what I expected to be a traffic nightmare. My husband thought it was a stupid idea, but since I was the one driving, he went along with it. As it turned out, the traffic was surprisingly manageable. The Gateway Arch National Park is the smallest in the entire U.S. system, it really is just the iconic structure and the lawn beneath it. But that doesn’t matter. I’m genuinely glad we decided to go up. The views are spectacular, and there’s a small but thoughtfully curated museum under the Arch that explores the early days of St. Louis and the region’s development, including some difficult historical truths about the European-American legacy. One tip: the tram capsules to the top are tiny and definitely not for the claustrophobic. But if you can close your eyes for the four-minute ride up (and three minutes down), it’s absolutely worth it.
Oh, and while we were there, we tried the St. Louis specialty – toasted ravioli. Legend has it that someone, clearly drunk, accidentally dropped perfectly good pasta into a deep fryer. Another equally inebriated soul gave it a try and couldn’t tell the difference. Since then, it’s become a local staple. Is it great? Absolutely not. Is it bearable when you’re out drinking? Definitely yes.
After visiting the Arch, the last point on our list were the Cahokia Mounds. We crossed the river and reached the site, but unfortunately, the visitor centre was already closed for the season. At least we were still able to take a short hike around. Cahokia was the largest and most significant settlement in what is now the United States, with a population that may have reached 40,000 at its peak, more than London or Paris at the same time, and it remained the biggest settlement in the U.S. until Philadelphia surpassed it in 1780. The largest structure on the site, Monks Mound, has a base comparable in size to the Great Pyramid of Giza and rises 30 meters (100 feet) high. I really wish I could have learned more during the visit.
It was the end of our adventure, two weeks passed in a flash. This part of the U.S. felt remarkably different from other regions I’ve seen. The trip was both an enjoyable journey and a valuable learning experience. Since most of my clients come from the U.S., understanding the cultural context they bring is essential for meaningful connection. And no matter what some may claim, the United States is an extraordinary country with a material history that stretches back thousands of years and deserves proper appreciation. The significance of places like Cahokia, Poverty Point, or Mesa Verde, just to name three among hundreds, should not be diminished simply because they may appear less grand than Stonehenge, the Colosseum, or the Parthenon, or because the people who built them were later decimated by newcomers.
When we arrived, Halloween decorations were everywhere; by the time we left, Christmas themes had already taken their place. Those 14 days flew by, and soon it was time to hop across the Atlantic and return to London’s reality, though not before one last glimpse of the Chicago skyline. I think I’m really going to miss this time here.
Hi, amazing trip! Is it very expensive to travel in the US?
Hi Pauline, thanks for your comment and question.
It depends on many factors, but it can be less expensive than many people expect.
Renting a car in the US is usually cheaper than in Europe (I assume you are European). Also, the price of gas is simply ridiculous from our perspective, which helps too. If it is a couple travelling, it is harder to be on a budget, but if it’s the whole car it is definitely doable by everyone, I guess. All American hotels and motels I found have huge beds, usually 2 of them, so it’s great for 4 people sharing the room, whether 2 couples or family of 2+2. Of course not everyone likes it, but it significantly lowers the accommodation prices (imagine room price 100 USD for 4 people instead of 2), breakfasts are usually included, but don’t expect anything more than some cereal, toasts, fruit, maybe pastry.
Obviously you need a relatively cheap flight ticket, but there are so many direct flights between Europe and the US that finding tickets on sale is not an issue, unless you want to leave tomorrow or have a connecting flight in mind (what I described in the first post about flying to Chicago instead of Omaha).
I hope that helped.