A post about the Ukrainian capital has been on my mind for quite some time. I’ve always felt a strong affinity with Ukrainians, though, to be honest, I’m not entirely sure why. Western Ukraine was once part of Poland before World War II, and in my region, which borders that historical line, the memory of wartime atrocities committed by Nazi-collaborating Ukrainians against Polish neighbours still lingers. Given this legacy, I wasn’t exactly raised to be a Ukrainophile – if anything, the opposite was more common. And yet, here we are. Somewhere along the way, something shifted. Perhaps because, when we speak of historical grievances, we must also acknowledge the deeper context: while Poles may not have had colonies in Africa, we did expand eastward – and that came with its own share of dominance and injustice. Talking about being oppressed by people whose lives your nation once controlled quickly becomes complicated. We don’t hold today’s Germans personally responsible for the horrors of 80 years ago, and similarly, perhaps it’s time to extend that same nuance to our eastern neighbours. Remembering the past matters, but so does choosing what kind of future we want to build. So, this post isn’t just about Kyiv. It’s also about how perceptions evolve—sometimes in ways we don’t expect.
My attitude changed over time, especially once I started meeting Ukrainians in person. I visited a few times as a teenager and quickly discovered that they were, quite literally, just like me. On one trip to Kyiv, my husband, who’s Polish but from the southern, formerly Austro-Hungarian region, said that I actually had more in common with Ukrainians than with him: superstitions, behaviours, customs, food, and so on. When Ukraine became independent in 1991, I supported it wholeheartedly and felt genuinely proud that Poland was the first country in the world to officially recognize its status. Of course, there was some tension in the air, especially as symbols of a new Ukrainian identity began to emerge, many of which had anti-Polish connotations. Still, I chose to give it the benefit of the doubt. After all, Poland, alongside the Soviet Union, had strongly opposed pre-war Ukrainian independence, and it seemed only fair to allow space for a nation to redefine itself on its own terms.
When the Orange Revolution began in 2004/2005, I already understood much more about Ukraine and its people. By then, there were Ukrainians living in Poland, many at first without legal status, in much the same way Poles had once worked under the radar in Western Europe. With Poland’s rightful access to the EU labour market, a gap opened in the domestic workforce for people willing to take on lower-paid jobs that kept the economy moving. Because there’s almost no language barrier between us, I once read it takes only about six weeks for an average Ukrainian speaker to begin communicating in Polish (though I’m not sure how easy it is the other way), Poland naturally became to Ukrainians what the UK, Ireland, or Germany had been for us. And our attitudes began to shift too; these weren’t abstract neighbours anymore, they were real people living and working among us. Since then, I believe nearly every Pole has come to know someone who holds a Ukrainian passport.
Poland is currently one of Ukraine’s strongest supporters, not only politically, but also on a deeply personal level. Millions of Poles are involved in helping, both those who have sought refuge and those who chose to stay in their country and fight. I must admit, it has surprised me at times. It’s one thing to believe in people, and another to witness that belief turned into everyday action. My husband and I do our best as well. Since we’re both Polish and familiar with the context and the needs, we focus on supporting individuals rather than organisations. I’m not here to tell you how to help or claim that our way is better. I’m sure there’s something meaningful you can do in your own country and within your own interests. You can help children, send money for pet food or beauty products (yes, dignity matters, even after losing everything), donate feminine care supplies, or purchase entrance tickets to Ukrainian museums, theatres, or zoos, even if you never use them. Your ticket helps keep the lights on, feed the animals, or support local staff. You can also raise awareness, online or in conversations with friends and colleagues, which is just as important, especially with the scale of Russian propaganda. And if you genuinely don’t know where to start, just ask me. I’d be happy to send you a list of NGOs that would be truly grateful for any kind of donation – no pressure, no judgment. And you can simply go to the official website of Ukraine where there are even more different options available.
Oh, and before we move on to the main part of this post: I’ve always used Ukrainian spellings rather than Russian ones. These days, that choice feels more important than ever. I understand it might be difficult for those accustomed to the older forms, but language matters. In Polish, for example, we traditionally say na Ukrainie (“on” Ukraine), a remnant of the time when it was part of our country. So when, in solidarity with Ukrainian independence, some people began saying w Ukrainie (“in” Ukraine), the standard form for referring to most other independent states, it initially sounded odd. But I’ll get used to it, I’m sure. After all, even the British now eat chicken Kyivs, nearly every major supermarket and restaurant chain has adopted the Ukrainian name!
Kyiv – the city older than Russia
The idea for this particular post came to me while reading official Russian propaganda materials, where Ukraine is consistently referred to as Malorossiya (literally “Little Russia”). For someone without much historical context, and let’s be honest, if Ukraine weren’t Poland’s neighbour, I probably wouldn’t know much either, it might sound plausible. After all, Russia has long projected itself as a vast and powerful empire, first under the tsars and later as the dominant “republic” of the Soviet Union. But that narrative couldn’t be further from the truth. To put it simply, claiming that modern Russia is the direct continuation of the old Ruthenian lands (of which there were many, and the ones tied to present-day Russia actually emerged quite late, by the way) is like insisting that the medieval Holy Roman Empire, first Frankish, then German, the one founded by Charlemagne with its capital in Aachen, was the true heir of ancient Rome. It’s a misleading simplification that serves imperial ambitions, not historical accuracy.
The U.S. Embassy in Kyiv brilliantly trolled Russian propaganda with a tweet pointing out that when Kyiv was already a thriving Christian city, the founders of Moscow hadn’t even been born yet. One of the oldest “purely” Russian cities, Novgorod, was, according to legend, founded in the 9th century, while Kyiv had already existed since at least the late 5th century. And yes, I’m well aware that Oleg of Novgorod (a Viking, not a Russian), eventually conquered Kyiv and moved the capital there. That moment marked the true beginning of Kyivan Rus’.
This post isn’t meant to be an elaborate history paper, so I’ll spare you the finer details that fascinate only a few of my readers, though I must admit, it’s a rich and nuanced subject I find endlessly interesting. Instead, I’d like to share a few truly old and beautiful places that, at least before the Russian invasion, every visitor to Kyiv would appreciate. These landmarks are more than just tourist attractions; they’re living proof of how original and unique Kyivan Rus’ culture really was.
The first building referenced in that U.S. Embassy tweet was the very first stone Christian church in Rus’. Sadly, it no longer exists, it was destroyed by the Mongols in 1240. Fortunately, the second landmark still stands proudly today: St. Sophia’s Cathedral. Named after the famous Hagia Sophia in Constantinople, the “Sophia” here refers to divine wisdom (sophia in Greek), not to any individual. This magnificent cathedral remains one of Kyiv’s most iconic and enduring symbols of the cultural and spiritual depth of Kyivan Rus’.
This is truly a magnificent monument, part of humanity’s shared cultural heritage and the first Ukrainian site to be inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage List, together with the next complex I’ll mention. It’s an absolute must-see for anyone visiting Kyiv. Today, St. Sophia’s operates as a museum, and as far as I know, religious services are not held inside. But the place has a beauty that borders on the magical. After exploring the breathtaking main cathedral, you can also visit several other buildings within the complex. I especially recommend climbing the bell tower, though fair warning, it’s not for the faint-hearted!
The second site on the UNESCO list is Kyivo-Pechers’ka Lavra – a remarkable cave monastery nestled within a grand complex of buildings. Unlike St. Sophia’s Cathedral, Lavra remains an active religious centre, still home to monks and priests. The term “lavra” refers to a high-ranking male Orthodox monastery, and this one was founded in 1051 by a monk returning to Rus’ from Mount Athos. He chose to settle in one of the caves overlooking the Dnieper River and began building a monastic community there. Today, the Lavra complex includes far more than just the caves: it features bell towers, cathedrals, chapels, a seminary, and a wide range of service buildings – making it not only a spiritual site, but a historical and architectural marvel as well.
It’s the largest museum in Kyiv, and while it draws countless tourists, it also remains an important destination for pilgrims. Just a note, if you’re a woman planning to visit, you’ll need to wear a head covering not only inside the churches but throughout the entire monastery grounds. The complex is vast, with many areas open to visitors, including the historic caves themselves. It’s truly enormous, both in size and in cultural and spiritual significance.
There are plenty of old religious buildings in Kyiv, and I’ve seen many of them, but I do want you to come back, so to keep things from getting too repetitive, here’s one last site, and this time it’s not strictly religious (though there is a small church in the centre). I’m talking about the famous Golden Gate of Kyiv, which served as the main entrance to the city in the 11th century and was constructed around the same time as St. Sophia’s Cathedral. This landmark is a bit controversial for two reasons: first, the original structure was dismantled in the Middle Ages and completely rebuilt by the Soviets in the 1980s; and second, there are no surviving images of the original, so several competing interpretations influenced its modern design.
I still decided to include it in this post, mainly because there’s no historical doubt that this structure truly existed. It was famously modeled after the Golden Gate of Constantinople and was well known throughout medieval Eastern Europe. It also has a connection to Polish history: according to legend, the Polish ceremonial sword used during coronations and the only surviving medieval crown jewel of the Kingdom of Poland, Szczerbiec, meaning “the chipped one”, got its name when King Boleslaus the Brave struck it against this very gate.
Every time I’ve visited Ukraine, I’ve experienced Kyiv as a modern, vibrant city full of friendly people and rich in fascinating places to explore. There are many more sites I might write about in the future, but as I mentioned at the beginning, this post was sparked by the ongoing Russian misinformation about Ukrainian heritage. Kyiv is a large city so most visitors will likely use its efficient and inexpensive underground transport, but if the weather is kind, I highly recommend walking. It is incredibly green, and strolling through its streets is genuinely enjoyable. Just make sure to wear good shoes and prepare for the hills, there are plenty of them! And if you ever need a break, just stop by one of the many cafés; beautiful views are pretty much guaranteed.
Ps. Thankfully most of my Ukrainian friends were able to flee the country and it is hard to say if they will ever come back. If they decide not to, I hope it will be their own decision, not the aftermath of this horrible war. Again, please consider help in ANY form. There are not more or less important cases, every penny counts. Thank you from the bottom of my heart!
Ps2. Moscow was founded in 1147 😉
