As promised, this week’s post is published on Thursday instead of Monday. Why? There’s a perfectly valid reason. This Thursday is a very special day, the sweetest day of the year in Polish culture. It’s called Tłusty Czwartek, which literally translates to Fat Thursday, and today you not only should but are morally and culturally obliged to eat as many sweet fried pączki (pronounced pownch-key) as possible. And remember, according to a popular Polish saying, the calories you consume on this day simply don’t count, even if you’re on the strictest diet! So, why not make yourself a cup of coffee – which pairs perfectly with these pastries, grab a doughnut, or if you can’t find one, something sweet and preferably deep-fried, and spend a moment with me? As you can see, I’m already prepared.
As the majority of Europe has been predominantly Christian for thousands of years, many current traditions have religious origins. Spring symbolizes new beginnings, not only for nature but also for a kind of moral and ethical renewal for us, human beings. To mark the period when, according to the Gospels, Jesus spent 40 days fasting in the desert and being tempted by Satan before his crucifixion and resurrection, Christians observe Lent. Although these fasting days may seem less strict than Ramadan, when Muslims fast from dawn to sunset, in many countries even traditionally-only religious people abstain from activities considered “frivolous” or sources of joy and pleasure. Believe it or not, when I was a child, many Poles refrained from eating meat, smoking cigarettes, drinking alcohol, and even having sex from Ash Wednesday until Easter Sunday, except on March 19th (Saint Joseph’s Day). Of course, at the end of winter, Europe is not a happy, colorful place full of fresh produce, so for people like my grandmother, the religious context was often only an addition to the practical reality of limited food options and forced fasting anyway.
As I mentioned above, Lent begins on Ash Wednesday, though the exact date changes each year since it depends on Easter. The day before, known as Pancake Tuesday in Anglo-Saxon countries, is celebrated much like Fat Thursday, with an emphasis on eating fried foods. Personally, I’m not a fan of pancakes, I’m sorry!
I do love crepes, though. In Poland, crepes are traditional, while the American or British-style pancakes are often seen as a bit sloppy. Polish crepes should be as thin as a batiste handkerchief, and most Polish mothers master this art. Even if they’re not as fancy as Crêpes Suzette, they still taste delicious. By the way, the picture shows a Korean gateau-like crepe cake, a rainbow of layers where each crepe looks and tastes a little different. Absolutely yummy!
A word of advice for anyone visiting Poland at the end of Carnival: since Lent has traditionally been observed quite strictly, the final days before it begins are also taken very seriously, especially when it comes to eating and drinking. While we may not be famous for elaborate costume parties, the sheer amount of alcohol consumed could challenge even the seasoned. The Tuesday before Ash Wednesday, known in the U.S. as Pancake Day, is in Poland called śledzik (literally “little herring”), referring to the small savoury bites typically served with vodka. It’s widely celebrated, and if you happen to attend a Catholic service on Ash Wednesday, don’t be surprised, the sombre expressions around you might not reflect deep spiritual contemplation, but rather the aftermath of a very enthusiastic send-off to Carnival.
Back to pączki. That’s the plural form, because let’s face it, they never come alone, unless we’re talking about the very last one, in which case it’s pączek. These are fist-sized doughnuts, traditionally filled with rose petal marmalade, though my mother always made them with homemade plum confiture. Today, you’ll find all kinds of fillings, from custards and liqueurs to chocolate, but for me, it always has to be some kind of fruit jam. And don’t forget the glaze: a light icing is a must, often topped with orange zest or shredded coconut. On Fat Thursday alone, more than 100 million pączki are sold in Poland. Can you believe that? It’s said the more you eat, the better your year will be, so really, why take chances?
Pączki aren’t unique to Polish cuisine. You can think of them as much older (dating back to the Middle Ages, originally in a savoury form) siblings of American jelly doughnuts or German Berliners. And just like with siblings, the younger the kid, the less parents seem to care (no offence, I’m the youngest too). The Polish version is made with rich, high-quality ingredients: lots of eggs and egg yolks, yeast, full-fat milk, and always a splash of strong alcohol, not for flavour, but to keep the dough from absorbing too much oil during frying (and yes, the alcohol evaporates, so it’s completely kid-friendly). So while pączki are sweet and certainly indulgent, the richness comes from carbs rather than excess fat.
I remember back in 2013, during my first London Fat Thursday, I couldn’t find proper pączki anywhere nearby. I had promised my husband I’d bring some to his office so he could share them with his colleagues, and in the end I had to settle for two boxes of Krispy Kreme doughnuts. I wasn’t thrilled, but as we say in Poland, “jak się nie ma, co się lubi, to się lubi, co się ma” – if you don’t have what you like, you like what you have. So, beggars can’t be choosers. While on the Tube, a little kid, maybe 3 or 4 years old, kept staring hungrily at the open boxes, so I offered him one. It turned out I’d gained at least one fan of Polish traditions that day, he was absolutely delighted to hear that there’s a day when eating loads of sweets isn’t just allowed, it’s practically a duty!
That’s all for now, I’m going to visit my husband at work, and just like everyone in Poland today, I’m bringing some pączki with me.
